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Notes:
The good news is that almost half of the gross elevation gain is without packs (total 3062m, 1643m loaded, 1419m unloaded).
This really highlights the effort required on the afternoon of day 1, which involves 718m of gross elevation gain - almost half of the entire route!
Motivation to keep total pack weight down.
Stopping early at Wild Dog Creek would still see a gross gain of 558m.
On the bright side ... not as bad as going up the Ironbound Range on the South Coast Track (907m gross gain)!
Other significant climbs:
The Never Never
Day 4 sees us walking westward through the Never Never, linking the Walls of Jerusalem with the Overland Track.
Walking west from Junction Lake, a steep descent beside Clarke Falls sees us entering the Never Never. There is no mapped track through here, although it is well travelled. After crossing the Mercey River (see below), we leave the Never Never behind at Hartnett Falls where there is a steep path up to the Overland Track.
The Never Never is quite polarising: on the one hand there are reports of thick scrub, mud and leeches ... but more experienced walkers talk of well-worn pads and open myrtle forest.
Staying close to the river and crossing within 200m of McCoy Falls seems to be the popular choice, but staying further to the north seems to be the drier and more open option (although it would be a shame to miss McCoy Falls).
The last 300m of the south bank is reported as very muddy.
I guess it comes down to the weather ... if there hasn't been too much rain, take the more traditional route; if it's been wet, stay to the north.
River crossings
Expect it to be "damp underfoot" between Lake Adelaide and Hartnett Falls (days 3 & 4), with multiple creek crossings and several swampy areas.
In the Never Never, the Mersey River (and several of its tributaries) needs to be crossed, options for crossing the Mersey are:
Chapman has posted on the bushwalk.com forum:
Authorities
Web resourcesTrack Notes
Trip Reports
Books
Correspondance
Bushwalk.com Forum for Tasmania http://ourhikingblog.com.au/category/walls-of-jerusalem http://ourhikingblog.com.au/2007/07/day-4-lake-meston-hut-to-kia-ora-hut.html
"People who get tummy troubles on the OT invariably blame the water when 99% of the time (if not more often) the cause is related to hygiene. It is all too easy for one careless person to contaminate a door or tap handle and, unless others use gloves, the problem is passed on to all comers. One more reason to avoid the huts.
Hi, I would like to gets some opinions and knowledge in regard to walking from Hartnett Falls along the Mersey River and up to Junction Lake Hut. I have done the complete track walk back in 2014 and looking to venture off into the Walls of Jerusalem after Hartnett Falls. Has anyone experience in travelling this area, I am hoping to follow the river without any GPS assistance and make it up to Junction Lake Hut. Thanks for any guidance. Re: Hartnett Falls to Junction Lake Hut
My advice is -at the falls area, cross to the eastern side of Mersey River, follow it upstream till it swings around to an easterly direction, follow it on the north side, keeping out of the teatree by being along the edge of the rainforest and then you should further on meet the track ( beside the river ) up to Junction Lake.
Re: Hartnett Falls to Junction Lake Hut
Thanks for the advice Paul Re: Hartnett Falls to Junction Lake Hut
We hiked from Lees Paddock up to OLT, along that a bit, down to the falls and only the Mersey to JLH. Rained the whole way and we were covered in leaches. It's called the Never Never because you will never never go back. The trails on both sides are wombat height. When you first see the hut from a distance it looks easy to get to but isn't. Was a long day and great to get to the hut as the rain continued all night. The clear plastic wrap on the walls lets you see the huge spiders in detail up close. Too tired to worry and slept well. A few leach gum balls in the bag in the morning. The forest on the way up to Cloister Lagoon was fantastic.
Avoiding Gastro
Why is it common? One thought is the amount of exposed faecal matter left by walkers near campsites. Flies land on it, then they coming hanging around your gourmet meal, rest a while. Bang you go down. Precautions
Suggested gear list
Walls and beyond spreadsheet will go here
Personal First Aid Kit - Johno to advise
MUST ALWAYS BE CARRIED in a clip lock bag
Group equipment/Duties
Personal equipment for end shuttle pickup
Rations (Kost)
All punters cater for themselves re breaky and luncheon and snacks
Breakfast Ideas
Luncheon Ideas
100g of rice per man is the learned allocation
Meal Nominations Brain Storm
Day 1 Friday
Entree
Hot water for cup a soup
Main
Slow cooked butter Chicken with Rice &. Vac pack. 1 cup rice Shellite allocation = 50 mls
Day 2 Saturday
Shellite allocation = mls
Day 3 Sunday
Hot water for cup a soup or
Shellite allocation = mls
Day 4 MondayEntree Cuppa soup
Shellite allocation = mls
Day 5 Tuesday
cuppa soups
Shellite allocation = mls
Day 6 Wednesday
Shellite allocation = mls
Day 7 Thursday
Shellite allocation = mls
Day 7 Friday
Shellite allocation = mls
Emergency Meal2 minute noodles - nothing fancy here.....lets hope we can ditch 'em - Complete
Custard recipe
Saturday Night Lodgings and Victory Celebrations - Truscott
Nominations
Dept of Infrastructure (on track repair kit) - Johnson
Notes
Post Walk report
I crave a remote wilderness experience. And, whilst I don’t mind meeting the odd party that shares this goal, our little walking group must be particular with its biennial excursion destination. With that confession, the Overland track is ruled out. With a maximum of sixty people being released each day there can be no respite from the cursory greeting and small talk. Seeking a remote nine day experience in Tasmania in early December that avoids the crowds can be quite the task.
Our mission would take us through country the Blisters and Chafers Society have not traversed. We would enter at the Fish river car park, ascend through the gates of the walls of Jerusalem to Dixon’s Kingdom. Continue to Lakes Ball, Adelaide, Meston and Junction, pick up the Mersey river, tracking through the Never Never to Hartnett falls. A brief encounter with the throngs at Bert Nicholls and Pine Valley before our exit at Lake st Clair via the Cuvier valley track. We would do some side trips at Dixons Kingdom and at Pine Valley meaning a two night layover. Our planning was thorough. Six weeks from departure date (7th December 2018) we produced 8 nights of home cooked dehydrated food, Fuel measurements estimated, Navigation options laid out and confirmation with transport vendors. We juggled group weight between the party to fulfill airline requirements. Our party comprised four usual suspects. Johnson, Kost, Nikadie and Truscott. Apologies from Stringer and Platt.
Day One Friday 7/12/18 - 9.5km
At Fish river car park, we ate a brief lunch, signed the intentions book, distributed some weight so that we were all carrying roughly 20 kg upwards to Trappers hut. Our day one saw a gross elevation gain of 714m with a destination of Dixons Kingdom. Our departure time was 1140 hours. It was hot muggy walking,hats and sunscreen prerequisites. By 1240 hours we made Trappers to drink and splash in the stream nearby. By 1530 we were at the tent platforms on Wild dog creek for more water and a short rest before more ascent through Herod's gate and Damascus gate, through the native pine down into Dixons Kingdom at 1725 hours. On the wildlife front there were many Bennett’s wallabies grazing in the native pine. Our evening meal was a fresh delight of butter chicken. It’s an easy heat and serve. All gents retired by 1930. It had been a long day of travel from Melbourne.
Day Two Saturday 8/12/18 - 7km
The various possum reports I had read on forums were substantiated. Some time during the evening I was visited by a possum tactical response unit whose core business it seemed, was to sort the evenings butter chicken rubbish bags all over my site. I did take precautions and tie the bag from some light cord from a tree branch suspending it from all mischief, but no, this crack squad of possums must have used some high level mathematical equations to determine the gymnastics involved to achieve their mission. I did hear something during the night but elected to roll over. In the morning I cleaned the mess and dipped my lid at the Dixons Kingdom possum colony. Who dares wins. Nikadie reported a more sombre incident. A Rogue possum actually ripped a small hole in his tent in a vain attempt to get foodstuffs. Nikadie bravely took up arms and with walking pole at the ready defended his food bag from the lone marauder.
After our very long day one (timewise), the party enjoyed a 0800 sleep in and then enjoyed breakfast in the hut. By 0930 we had our day packs ready and departed for “Solomon's Throne” and “King David’s Peak”. The chaps took the opportunity to check in with loved ones via the Optus and Telstra 4G signal availability whilst taking in the the 360 degree views of “Solomon’s Throne” (1469m). We spent some time with paper maps determining distant and nearby peaks eventually pinpointing our pending route through to the “Acropolis” and “Byron Gap”. Whilst there is no track as such over to “King David’s Peak” the route is clear, and with a bit of rock hopping we were marvelling once more at 1499 m elevation to get a more northerly perspective. We returned to camp for lunch and declared the afternoon one of personal agenda items. The sun was out and quite warm. Johnson and Kost bathed, Some napped, Some read books.
The evening routine began at 1700 hours with the evening meal, Johno’s roo stew and mash, being rehydrated and cuppa soups consumed. All done by 2000 hours.
Day Three Sunday 9/12/18 13.4 km
During the evening we had about 20 minutes of very light rain and woke to a fog in the kingdom. It lifted by by 0700. The business of striking camp was calculated at two hours for me, others were quicker. I am a stickler for a porridge breakfast and cup of tea in relative calm so I choose to rise earlier. The other chaps can shave that time. After the application of sunscreen and a long drink of water we departed Dixon’s heading down the valley through what is known as Jaffa Vale, an open, soggy buttongrass moorland that leads to Lake Ball. Our first breather at 0920 was Lake Ball hut. This hut was built by Ray “Boy” Miles, a WWII veteran who lived on the central plateau in peace battling the demons of war. Spectacular walking around the lake observing the crystal clear pools and the thriving plant life that springs. A short steep descent down to Lake Adelaide (1055m) from 1148m down a tight track provided some tactical pole work over rocks, tea tree overgrowth and fallen logs and raised a decent group sweat. A bonus for walking at this time of year is the wildflowers. The fragrance was intense during some sections. We took a 30 minute rest break at the northern end campsite of the Lake in glorious sunshine.
The Junction Lake track heads off in a south westerly direction, and for us, in the heat of the day was pretty hard work. We wanted to swim, but we had a destination. Meston Lake hut. For a good 3km the track hugs the lake with a steep scrubby ascent on the eastern side. At the southern end of the lake the landscape opens up to swampy buttongrass moorlands that make for a pleasant change and following the pad is quite easy. At another time of year it could get quite messy here, but not today, and not for us.
A short camera break at the northern campsite on Lake Meston and then the final push to Meston Lake hut. If we were to do it again, we would camp on the lake at this northern campsite, much more scenic with a little beach and crystal clear water lapping the edge. The Meston Lake hut is not on the lake and getting to the waters edge is not straight forward, but there is good water flowing at the hut. We arrived at the hut site at 1540 hot and exhausted. Tent sites are quite limited but we managed to find space for four tents, and before long, the site went quiet as the chaps took a lie down before dinner proceedings would commence.
The evening meal was Johno’s mango and chicken curry, rehydrated for a good hour whilst we sipped on our tasty cuppa soups to rehydrate. This warm tasmanian weather on the central plateau turned our attention to three ordinary rituals.
Dishes and bed.
Day Four Monday 10/12/18 10.8km
I awoke to my 0500 alarm. No rain last night but it was a bit windy for a few hours. Breakfast was prepared in the hut. The hut is a few notches above Dixon’s with 2 bunk beds and a sizeable fireplace. It would appear to be more of a fishing hut with a couple of sets of waders hanging up and fishing parapheniala hanging around the hut walls. In any case, a good refuge in bad weather.
We departed the hut at 0710 under clear blue skies and a fresh application of sunscreen. Today is Never Never day. We push along the junction lake track with fresh legs and a cracking pace marvelling at the rock slopes of Mt Rogoona that meet Meston. A short climb over a saddle and we descend into the Mayfield flats. The Mayfield Flats is a swampy undulating space between Meston and Junction Lake, with Lake Youd, the basin for many creeks and streams that evolve into life giving Mersey River. With our ideal weather pattern it was lovely walking in the early morning. Pads peter out but generally the track stays high as it wends its way down the valley to Junction Lake. The sound of rushing water is ever present to the south. We arrive at Junction Lake hut by 0920 and take a “packs off” break. Nikadie opens the clinic for some preventative blister work whilst the other chaps fill water bottles, drink and sit. We don’t want to move. The sun is very hospitable on our backs and the water is pristine. This hut is in great condition and would be a relaxing destination in its own right.
A 1000 departure and the party is in good spirits for the next off track leg of our day. We attempted to follow worn footpads in the direction of travel however it became clear we were really just following animal pads. It was easier walking on the higher bumps around the button grass plains so we stuck to that keeping an eye on the lake as it funnels to become the Mersey once again. Picked up a distinct footpad and found the steel post log book box. We documented our intentions and pressed on. The contour lines get tight and the track is scrubby with tea tree making progress difficult.Conversation lagged as we focussed on the path of least resistance. As we descended we could hear Clarke falls in the distance but strangely we were in no mood to visit. In retrospect I am not sure why our party did not at least drop packs and take a look.
Navigation wise I found it to be pretty easy in that all you are doing is following the Mersey, keeping it on your left, walking the valley to McCoy Falls. The difficulty is the vegetation, which is proactively trying to remove you from your backpack.
Eventually we burst out onto beautiful buttongrass moorland with high cliffs on both sides and no sign of Human interference. We did not take many photographs, we just sucked it in. We weren’t travelling with any sort of urgency, it was just perfect.The novelty of walking on spongey buttongrass moorland was fast wearing off. Its hard going on the muscles and the odd misdirected foot into a “shinful” of mud triggered the odd expletive. No real footpads, we just fanned out and continued walking along the valley.
Back into the Myrtle forest and soon we were hearing McCoy Falls. There was a good flow. This was gazetted our lunch spot at 1230. We took time to scramble down the bank to marvell at McCoy Falls, though our enthusiasm for a swim dwindled with the reality of the water temperature. We began the final day 4 push at 1320. About 200 m down river our minister for navigation directed us to cross the mersey via one of the fallen logs as going was allegedly easier on that side as well as the evenings campsite.
There were some sections of easier walking including a delightful stretch of river rambling in Myrtle forest however there was still some bush bashing to contend with. You have to cross the river at some stage so just maintain your bush bashing mindset until you reach Hartnett Falls. We emerged onto the hartnett falls feeder track somewhat hot and bothered. We dumped packs at the top of the falls and scouted upstream for the campsite that we had heard about. We found a beautiful mossy clearing in the myrtle forest right on the bank of the Mersey. No sign of any previous camps.Retracing steps to pick up our packs we landed for the night at 1530 hours. Tents went up and some of the chaps laid down for a short while. I missed the bathing session and was told that the water was not appropriate for long bathing. I.e bloody freezing.
Master of Dinner was myself and I continued the strict routine of rehydrating the meal at 1700. Cuppa’s, Cup-a-soup, Spag Bol and a hot chocolate and we were done. This campsite would be remembered fondly by the party due to the Mersey River background noise that lulled us to sleep. Tomorrow we would likely meet overland hikers and this would end our private time in the wilderness. We collectively retired at 2000. I am struggling to tune my transistor radio to any station of interest, strangely the only consistent AM station is radio TAB.
Day 5 Tuesday 11/12/18 15.2km
The evening sleep was uneventful. The sound of the Mersey wending its way northward rushing and the distant sound of contented snorers ebbed as I drifted into the sleep of the well exercised. No critters made nuisance. I was up at 0500 (picannie dawn) for breaky and a contemplative cup of tea by the river. We achieved our 0700 depart and took the time to drop packs and descend to Hartnett falls for marvelling. By 0750 we were reacquainting ourselves with our lighter backpacks and with a gorgeous morning light with clear blue skies we doddled up the Hartnett feeder track. A brief stop at the OT junction and we were on our way up to Ducane gap. The better track meant that we were naturally able to increase our clip without the use of the whip. By 0835 we were resting and drinking at Ducane gap. The party in excellent spirits. 0845, the mob were on the move and conversation focused on the much discussed Bert Nicholls hut and the numbers of people we might encounter.
The descent down to windy ridge is tricky. Concentration is required with foot placement amongst the root system that hold up these magnificent forests. Bert Nicholls Hut is a product of a tourism Tasmania's successful campaign. This, and Pelion hut had to be built to lessen the impact on the fragile ecosystem that is being loved to death. It has 3 separate Dorms and a huge kitchen. There was a friendly vibe as we explored the site. We rested, drank, chatted with those who would chat with us. But this was not our destination. This incursion onto the OT was brief, a stepping stone to Pine Valley. Surprisingly, not a lot of Overland trackers go into Pine Valley. Bert Nicholls appears to be their last night out, and the following day they make for the jetty at Narcissus Hut. Some do walk the lake but our sample did not prove that statistic.
It's getting warm, the party are running at prime operating temperature and are in flow. Turns are taken for point duty, read that as snake watch. We make a pace of about 3.8km per hour and enjoy long periods of silence. We reach the pine valley junction at 1140. Another heat\water break then turn our attention to luncheon. Johno leads us off and makes the luncheon call by a good size creek, perhaps a river, at 1220. Boots and shirts fly off and limbs are immersed in the water. At 1310 we were Pine Valley Hut bound , walking through dry scrubby country, crossing the river twice via one person suspension bridges. The country then turns into the pine and myrtle forest once again and gets coole,r ever so slightly going uphill. We meet a young track warden and chat with him for 5 minutes. We dig for intel on the cuvier valley trk. We get nothing. At 1515 we make the hut, bushed by the heat. We are greeted by a older gent hanging around the hut who was interested in talking to newcomers about stuff. It was always going to be highly unlikely that we would inhabit the hut for our two night stay in the valley and the presence of this chatty fellow nailed it home. In the spirit of minimising the society footprint we elected to put all four tents up on the one platform. It felt like the right thing to do given the scarcity of platforms and flat earth spots. This did raise some discussion amongst the light sleeping brigade and broke section 3 clause 1 of the society code. That clause reads “No gent shall erect any sleeping structure within 10 meters for the purpose of overnight slumber”. We fumbled around with the peg apparatus getting our digs right and then regrouped for a cuppa and setup the kitchen on the outside bench of the hut to get a bit of height for the Muka and the chef for tonight.
Master of Dining tonight is none other than Minster truscott with his commercial dehy Moroccan lamb and broccoli. The meal was of ministerial standard.
Day 6 Wednesday 12/12/18 6 km
My sleep was solid. I put ear plugs in early and drifted off. I am told a possum created havoc with my camp cooking utensils over by the hut. Word around the breakfast circle was that a possum must have launched himself at my rubbish bag which was hanging from a hook by the side of the hut, missed and kicked over the kitchen camp kit. Rowan attended to the situation and made good.
We were up at 0600 for a 0800 muster to climb the Acropolis. Rowan stayed behind. Two and a half hours up with poles all the way. A few people had said that you ditch the poles when you get to the rock and boulder work. This is not society policy. The poles stay with you through thick and thin. The summit track from the hut goes like this.
Pines, pinch, plateau,scrub, boulders, pinch and summit.
It's a blue sky wednesday and we are plastered up in sunscreen. The final climb to the Acropolis is technical and exhilarating. For people of my standard it has all the facets of climbing an Australian mountain. The views are spectacular in clear weather. If there was any low cloud or inclement weather blowing around I would not climb. Just would not be worth it. A young bloke, Oliver, passed me and I found him on one of the Dolomite columns lounging around taking in the view when I got to the top. We spent a good two hours observing the panorama. There is solid 4G access up there and some of the chaps took the opportunity to touch base with their respective HQ’s.
Back to the hut and we were just in time for the standard dinner routine. Master of dining was myself and I was serving a Dahl with Couscous and wraps. Tonight was also custard and date night. A 1 bag wonder and a lot of stirring, it turned out well. It was also decided that a provision of cocoa should be added to personal kit for hot chocolates after dinner. A bit after 2000 hours all chaps retired to the platforms to once again practice what comes naturally at the end of an energetic day.
Day 7 Thursday 13/12/18 13.7 km
Cloudy weather this morning and a bit windy. It was windy overnight. The breakfast routine was as usual and we were tracking out of Pine valley by 0750. Passing through the many vegetation changes, our cohesive party with fresh legs moved as one and made PV junction by 0905. A decent 25 minute breather here with shirts off. It was humid and the clouds were parting. Pushed on to Narcissus Hut. The valley opens up with views to Mt Byron, Mt Olympia and the Narcissus river becomes significant on our left hand side as we near the hut. Arriving at the hut at 1030 hours was problematic and was the seed of discussion as to whether we should keep pushing. There was no need to adjust plans. We were making good walk times and our remaining distance was not overwhelming. We needed to practise the skill of slowing down and immersing ourselves in the countryside. Not so easy. In any case we setup our quarters on the tent platforms and lounged around a picnic table with cuppa’s and an early luncheon. In the afternoon a swim was in order for me and so I headed down to the ferry jetty. Cold.
Master of Dining was once again myself with a potato and pumpkin, cauliflower curry. Soup Lotto by Johno. A walk down to the jetty after meal cleanup. Tent retirement by 2045.
Day 8 Friday 14/12/18 15.3 km
Today we tackle another trafficable route, i.e no maintained track. Our exit to Lake St Clair is via the Cuvier Valley. We are looking forward to another wilderness experience. At 0650, we depart Narcissus hut in light wind and scattered high cloud. It would be a warm day. At 0710 we reach the Byron gap track junction. The track is not well worn but very well marked. One just has to keep eyes peeled for flagging tape and orange nailed tree markers in the distance. The track passes through cool myrtle forest and lots of water in the gullies. By 0845 we have reached byron gap at an elevation of 1024m. NIkadie launched the drone for some footage, we rehydrated, snacked and departed the gap at 0855. The track down to Lake Petrarch seems to deteriorate in terms of the abundance of markers. There is still an eroded foot pad at times and a lot of bashing through foliage. A gorgeous view of the lake greets us from a vantage point on the way down.
As we get to the lake we can see the beach campsite at the other end. We make this our destination for a break. No real footpad around the lake or if there is we lost it many times through the scrub. We attempted to take the path of least resistance. We eventually picked up a pad and came to land at the campsite on the beach at 1035. Lake Petrarch is a jewell and was a tonic for our party. The skies were cloudless and it was warm. There is a bowling green like lawn on the perimeter of the crystal clear waters of the lake. It is here we make a significant call in terms of pleasure seeking. We have made good time during the morning and if we continued at this pace we would be setting camp too early in a place that may not be as picturesque. We allow ourselves to lounge here at the Lake for a few hours and explore the site. No swimming, but the chaps were seen to be nodding off in the shade. We depart at 1400, buoyed by our lazy experience and ready to do battle with more single track and button grass plains.
The walking is hot with vegetation and water/mud barring an express type walking service. Mostly spindly tea tree branches and a bit of fallen timber to negotiate. The pad is well footed but not marked. After about an hours walking we emerge onto what looks like vast button grass plains that just roll on. Reminded me a lot of the mainland high plains. Good Solid marker poles are in place for this section and whilst it looks tantalising, one must concentrate on meandering the clumps of button grass. With Mt olympus on my left hand side and the Cuvier river on my right and a bit of clean sunny weather the time passed quickly. By 1600 we began looking for a campsite. Bowling green type campsites are spotted on the other side of the Cuvier. By 1645 we were over the river and had found suitable sites that were not water logged. We had to walk about 400m from the river towards the ridge as the bowling green was quite soggy and not so flat. Packs were dropped and so did we. Not a real long day in distance and we had a 2 hour layover but it was tough going.
Tents went up, group water was fetched and dinner was prepared. Kost was the master of meal and tonight he would be serving a chickpea dahl. We recalled the week’s adventures over our last soup lotto. I note we had one bar of optus 4g access. As the long dusk continued lots of wombats were spotted foraging on the river flats. As this was our last night out, our food zero policy was enacted and we helped each other out eating excess wight. Evening retirement by 2000.
Day 9 saturday 15/12/18 4.5 km
Light showers overnight and low cloud over the range in the morning. The Mt Olympus peak that we navigated by yesterday was nowhere to be seen. No Porridge for me this morning as it would appear that I miscalculated. No problem, a muesli bar and a cup of tea would ease me into morning routine and if all went well we would be celebrating with food of some sort at Lake St Clair. It was a cool morning and we struck camp at 0800 with jackets on and knowing that our first task would be to cross the Cuvier. We knew we didn’t have far to travel this morning as this was planned a few months ago and with fresh legs and a dose of “end of walk” fever we were thrashing through the last of the button grass and then a formed track into “Watersmeet”. The track on the other side of the “watersmeet” bridge grows to something 3 meters wide. We all felt a bit agoraphobic under the circumstances. We dropped into Fergys Paddock to inspect that as a last mile campsite. It was nice enough but it did have the potential be busy. 0930 is the gazetted end time at the visitors centre. We made our way to the Lake St Clair Lodge Cafe and perused the fare on offer. It was still pretty quiet at this point as most of the overlanders would not arrive for another couple of hours, which was good because our party had to ease its way back into gregarious living. We sat up at the table and ordered cooked breakys and coffee. Spirits were high. It was only here that I became self aware of the bodily smells of 9 days out. No big deal but by god that shower at the Grand Chancellor in Launceston was going to be the ticket. We had time to kill. Our transport was not due until 1300 hours. We lounged through the breakfast watching the international tourists come and go and bit by bit the chaps departed and did their own thing. I went and signed the intentions book indicating a successful walk and browsed the visitor centre.
Just as an aircraft has to do circuits to dump fuel under extraordinary circumstances I setup the SOTO Muka in the stone hut nearby and boiled water for numerous cups of tea before dumping the 500 mls of shellite. There is fuel dump bin near the visitors centre for those of us that cannot take our fuel home on the plane.
No ten day wilderness excursion, well executed, can fall short of expectations and this did not. In the fullness of time we shall return to another iconic Tasmanian destination.
What we have learned
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